Monday, February 8, 2010

Seoul Adventures (Hongdae Night; Jongmyo)

I briefly mentioned that the last weekend of January Min Gi and I traveled to Seoul. We had two main goals: 1) File the first round of immigration papers for Min Gi's becoming a U.S. Permanent Resident and 2) Go skiing for the first (and only) time this season, the second time in Min Gi's life (the first was my Christmas present to him last year). However, I'm not going to blog about either of those here. I'm going to blog about the extra adventures we took while we had a chance to visit Seoul again, sans the whole family clan.

Hongdae Night

We arrived in Seoul on a Friday evening, hungry and excited. We decided to look around the Hongik University area (or "Hongdae" as it is more popularly known). Although it was very cold and we had our backpacks on, we wandered all over the area that I've come to know secondhand through the lovely bloggers of Doing It Korean Style and I lost my mind in Seoul. I even saw the infamous TinPan, advertisements for something called "The Donkey Show" which looks absolutely terrifying, and a bar called Boobi Boobi (you can see photographic evidence of these things in the photo album above). It was club night, but we were there around 7 p.m. so the action hadn't started yet. We would have loved to actually hang out for the party scene, but waking up to go skiing at 7 a.m. is not conducive to a late night.

A night view of the second-floor restaurant.

We found a beautiful little Spanish restaurant called La Paella (guess what it serves?). The chefs were Spanish and the food deliciously spiced and savory (and since we ordered the vegetarian paella, also rather healthy). We devoured it quite fast. I continue to maintain that if I lived in Seoul I would be broke and fat, but my tummy would be very, very happy.

Min Gi, trying to look "cool," with our amazing cafe desserts!

After dinner, we were looking for a coffee shop to rest and talk and discovered a little gem a bit off the main Hongdae strip called Cafe Atre (I believe... it may have been Arte, but it was next to a "Piano Cafe" if that helps you find it). The menu was amazing. Min Gi ordered an iced coffee drink and a scone, while I got a tea called "Snow White's Apple" (complete with apple slice in the cup) and a piece of chocolate "cake" that was more like a brownie. The atmosphere was very comfortable and although cutsey (like all of Korea), the wooden beams made it feel like a converted barn and was kind of rustic for Seoul.

We found a nice motel in nearby Sinchon and met our tour bus to Phoenix Park the next morning. We returned to Seoul late on Sunday, ready to file the paperwork at the U.S. embassy on Monday morning.

Jongmyo, Royal Ancestral Shrine

After filing the paperwork, we headed to one of the few remaining UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Korea that I have not yet visited, the Royal Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Dynasty, Jongmyo.

A rare finding in a Joseon monument--a memorial shrine honoring a king from Goryeo.

A small bit of historical information: Most of the ancient sites and palaces around Seoul and Gyeonggido are relics of the Joseon dynasty, which was the last Korean dynasty lasting from 1392 until the Japanese occupation of Korea in 1910, or from the dynasty before that, Goryeo. However, the area surrounding Daegu is Kyungsang-do, which contained the Silla kingdom from the period of the three kingdoms before Goryeo dominated. I must say that, in general, I find Silla art and architecture to be far more compelling and emotional than the more severe and sombre Confucian designs of Joseon. I believe, although I have not done nearly enough research on the matter, that this preference comes from Silla's stronger connection to Buddhism and religion. I admire Joseon's attention to geometric unities and impressive structures, but I am not stirred by them in the same way I have been at temples throughout the Kyungsang provinces.

Min Gi stands on the immense stone platform, upon which the Royal Ancestral Rites and ceremonies were observed, in front of the main shrine building.

However, at Jongmyo, I did feel a bit moved. Perhaps the gray sky and remaining snow and ice enhanced the impressiveness of the architecture. Or perhaps I was just relieved of the burden of filing those immigration papers, but either way, I was quite speechless in the face of the main shrine area.

Said to be the longest traditional building in Asia, the perfect symmetry of the shrine lends an eerie feeling to the place--like the entrance to the Labyrinth.

After passing through Jongmyo itself, a small foot bridge over a busy Seoul street leads you to one of the less important of the five main Seoul Palaces, Changgyeonggung. Although we were tired from carrying around our backpacks all this time, we explored the grounds a bit.

In front of Changgyeonggung.

All in all, I'm glad I got to see a bit more of Seoul. I'm finally starting to feel a bit more comfortable in that city. Enough so that I think I might be able to live there if I get a job there in the distant future. That's a good thing to know.

Friday, February 5, 2010

In Sickness... What about the Health Part???

It's been four weeks since we had the big party. I haven't blogged it yet because I don't have the good pictures from my friend Julian. He's working on cleaning them up (color balancing and whatnot that these photo geeks know all about), but I've seen a preview and they're pretty worth the long wait.

However, after four rather busy and strange weeks, I can tell you that marriage is a bit different than dating--in more ways than just remembering to say "my husband" instead of "my boyfriend" or even "my fiance"--but that it doesn't fundamentally change who you are or what issues you have. We all know I've been dealing with some pretty serious health issues since last October. I've written before about it affecting my relationship, and of course, it continues to affect my relationship, even as I am recovering.

Being married has just made some of these issues feel like a bigger deal. Like Koreans ALWAYS love talking about health, but lately whenever Min Gi does, it's like "I want you to be around and healthy for many years." Which I know is very sweet. But to my ears it sounds like he thinks I'm not doing something for my health that I should be doing, so I'm taking it as criticism and reacting badly. I'm depressed about the state of my own health, but I really am doing everything I can to get better, including exercising more as I can and eating healthy.

We're fighting more (a little... not badly, just a bit more), but I think that's because it's ok to fight if you're married 'cause no one is going to just walk out the door. We fight nice (no name-calling or belittling), but it's definitely more than we did before getting married. (Actually we end up mocking ourselves fighting by the end and so fights turn into play-fights, which is rather silly). I think my sensitivity to his comments about my health factors into this. I think when I'm more healthy (and as we adjust to being married) this will go down.

I'm ready to stop being sick, but my body seems to disagree, doing stuff like catching every little bug that comes along, rendering my efforts to get back in shape and cook healthy foods less effective and throwing off my well-laid plans. This is endlessly frustrating, but being married means it is now a frustration for two people, not just for myself.

For example, I've had a cold the last two days, but Min Gi wanted to go hiking this morning. I agreed to try, but said I'm not sure how much I could do since I was still having some trouble breathing. He insisted that the mountain air would be refreshing (which was, in my opinion, irrelevant to whether or not I could breathe it). We made it about 10 minutes out before I felt like if I kept going, I'd make it to the top, but I'd be sick for the rest of the weekend. I told him I needed to turn back. I actually couldn't get the air into my lungs.

He tried to convince me to keep going, but I remained firm. I could tell he was disappointed--he wanted to hike together like we used to do. I wanted that, too, but I know my body. He kept going to the summit and I went home. It's very frustrating to deal with this, and I know it's frustrating for him always having to be supportive.

Not everything has been such a failure. We went to Camp Swing It together this year, and I made it through most of the classes pretty well, although I was too tired for more than an hour or two of the social dancing. I didn't take pictures this year, like I did last year, but it ended up being a lot of fun and getting Min Gi excited about swing dance again. We went skiing this last weekend with Adventure Korea and managed to ski both days, but I could definitely feel a big difference in my strength and stamina compared to last year. It's disappointing to me, but now it's also like I'm failing him. And his commenting on it does NOT help me feel better, it makes me feel incredibly guilty and sad.

But even though we wrote our own vows that didn't include the words from the title of this post, I want to shout, "When do we get our 'Health' part back???"

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Planning a Move: Books and Reviewing.

As I have mentioned before, my current contract, which expires August 25 (although with my 8 vacation days, I should be moving back to the US before August 14 depending on my summer camp schedules--yes I plan this far in advance), will be my final contract in Korea for the time being. That means I have to think about how I will transport all of the stuff I've accumulated during my three years living in this country. I have resisted buying much, relying mostly on hand-me-downs from departing native teachers and taking careful care of things like clothes so that the last until the bitter end and then I can toss the fraying, decayed bodies into the bin.

However, I have managed to collect quite the little library in my house. Books have always been my downfall. I inherited the vice from my mother, whose basement library was so impressive that I often remarked to her that I could have gone to Harvard with no debt had she simply used the library.

I have tried to ban myself from buying any more books until all my current books have been read while giving away the books I read as I finish them, and I've been somewhat successful (although I cheated a little here and there--borrowing books or buying a few new ones--still I've purchased only five new books in the last year including The Lonely Planet guidebook for our upcoming honeymoon to Cambodia and Thailand and two books about the nasty disease I was diagnosed with last May). I'm giving away books to friends and through Bookmooch, which I love but did have the negative side effect of allowing me to acquire four more books (I'm also not allowed to request books on it for now).

It seems though that there are still about 25-30 English titles left on my shelf that are unread or partially read that I'd rather not take home with me. I didn't buy most of these and many are not even to my taste. But still, I'd like to read them. This means, with about seven months to go, I must read at least four books each month.

I think I can manage that (although some, like The Two Koreas will be a bit heavy and slow-going). This last month I read about five without even really trying. The nice thing is that this might also help me manage my money goal of not going out and spending money so I can finally pay off my grad school debt.

Money and books and fewer things to pack? This is a win.

To keep me honest, I will make Wednesdays a book review day. I promise to review one new book I've read a week on Wednesdays in the blog. This will also keep my blogging up a bit more. Woohoo.

So, for today, I will start with the book I just finished, The Dogs of Babel by Carolyn Parkhurst. Parkhurst is a DC area resident and graduate of American University's MFA in Fiction program. I purchased the book when I was researching MFA programs in the DC area four years ago before scrapping that plan in favor of moving to Korea. However, I'm really glad I kept her book with me.

This moving portrait of one man's grief as he copes with the loss of his young wife by trying to teach their dog, the only witness to his wife's fall from the tree in their yard, is at times quirky, funny, strange, mystical, and spectacular. Parkhurst's characters are believable, even if her situations are not quite so, which engages us in a sort of mid-Atlantic magical realism. Yes, the book is about a man and his dog, but it's about so much more than that--human connections, criminal minds, psychic hotlines, mask-making artists.

Ultimately, it is both surprising and wholly predictable in a way that the book needs to be to make it genuine to the human experience. I loved it. I devoured it on the train to Seoul and back. It inspired me to get back to work on one of my put-aside stories. It's been at least a few months since a book has inspired me to work on my own writing so directly. Thank you, Ms. Parkhurst.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Teaching Teachers.

I started out writing this post wanting to tell you about what I've been doing on the teaching front this last month, however, I found that I first must confess to you my greatest failure as a teacher. Doing so is not easy for me. I feel that I am, usually, an excellent teacher, and that if I encounter a situation where my methods are not working, I find ways to adapt and make the class successful. However, in this instance, I feel like a failure. In fact, you could say that I'm giving up--something I have never before done in my career. I am ashamed. I don't want to share this with you. But I must be honest.

A year and a half ago, I began teaching at Taegu Foreign Language High School (TFLHS). In addition to teaching conversation and co-teaching reading and culture classes to our wonderful students, I was asked to teach a class for the English teachers at 외고. At the time, I was overwhelmed and confused. I'd never taught adults before and hadn't finished my master's, so I felt unqualified and intimidated. Furthermore, the teachers gave me no guidelines about their own expectations for the course, merely a negative review of the previous native teacher who had shown episodes of Friends (25 minutes) and then discussed them after.

I had some ambitions for the twice a week class, mostly inspired by the excellent seminars I experienced with the Martha's Vineyard Summer Institute where I took most of my graduate coursework. We started by alternating discussions of teaching philosophy and pedagogy with single-shot lessons about tricky points of English grammar and usage, such as helper verbs and conditional language. I offered them the class a place to discuss problems they were having teaching students that I could help with, but none of them brought these to class (though they certainly weren't shy about asking me privately during my planning time). I began to develop huge management problems--they never came on time (we're talking 15 minutes late or more) or consistently; my boss, who was a student in the class, would cancel class at her whim and forget to tell me about it; they refused to do any studying outside of class; they seemed dissatisfied with what they were learning in class, but wouldn't answer my questions about what they wanted to do/learn. It was completely impossible. I felt like a crappy teacher who couldn't do anything right. Usually, I can adjust myself with high school students who need more structure and "crack the whip" so to speak, thereby solving my management problems. But with colleagues, especially since one of them is my boss, I couldn't do this.

When the new school year started last March, I tried to take control by making the class more structured. I required that they show up by five minutes into the class. I gave them notebooks and had a written warm up for every class and offered to read their journals if they chose to practice writing in English. I asked if they were interested in having a book discussion club of sorts where we'd read an English book together (a chapter a week) and one of the classes would be a discussion of the contents. If some didn't want to do this, they could still come to the other lesson in the week, which would focus on debate and continue usage lessons. They all liked the idea and agreed to read Bill Bryson's The Mother Tongue: English and How It Got That Way.

It worked (more or less) for about two months. However, as exam time approached and teachers got busier, they stopped reading the book, stopped coming to class, stopped wanting to do anything in class but discuss silly, nonsensical topics like shopping(they complained when I would introduce debate topics about education because they claimed they were sick of talking about it and they couldn't change anything anyway), stopped bringing their notebooks and pens to class to write. I came to hate teaching this class and resent the English teachers at my school (who I usually loved for other reasons--they are generally good, hardworking teachers who really try to make sure William and I are informed and supported).

Perhaps they sensed my animosity because by the start of second semester, we were down to just four regular students (out of 12 Korean English teachers). By the end, we were reading The Crucible aloud together. The teachers who made it through to the end seemed to really enjoy and appreciate this, but I feel like such a failure for losing so many students and not being able to ever feel like the class was my own.

No class--not even my sixth period class from hell my first year of teaching that included a young man who showed up high on the second day of school--has ever made me feel less competent and talented at teaching than this class of colleagues.

I started to wonder if maybe I just wasn't up to par when it came to teaching adults. However, this January provided me with the opportunity to see that this just isn't the case. I'm so glad that my teaching self-esteem in this area has been mostly restored.

Instead of participating in the regular English camps for students that the public schools in Daegu sponsor, I opted to do the same as last winter and teach at a training certification camp for Korean English teachers, along with William and four other English teachers in Daegu.

One reason I enjoy teaching this kind of seminar is that it provides new insight into how the public schools in Korea work from a professional perspective. Having worked as a public school teacher in the U.S., I'm quite interested in some of these differences. After four years in the Daegu public schools, teachers can take this five-week long training program at the Palgong mountain center to receive their Level One certification which results in a significant pay raise. One part of this course is a required 36 hours of native English teacher instruction. That's where I come in. The six native teachers each taught six classes to six groups of 9-11 teacher-students.

Last year's organizer seemed better prepared and asked us each to conduct lessons with a different focus (such as Reading, Listening, Speaking, etc), and I elected to teach Writing. My master's degree is in writing with a focus on pedagogy, so I'm pretty well qualified to teach it to others at this point. Also, of all the aspects of English taught and studied in Korea, writing is the area that gets the least attention. (Perhaps 10-12 years ago, speaking would have been considered more neglected, but now with so many native teachers in hagwons and public schools teaching conversation classes, it's definitely writing).

People still graduate with degrees in English Education and English Literature from good universities in Korea without ever having had to write an essay in English. Furthermore, Korean students often don't even study writing in their native language. Few high school teachers assign essays, and even fewer bother with basics like the writing process or things like structure and idea development.

But, I digress.

This year, they didn't ask us to consult with each other, so I was the only teacher who chose a focused topic (not just a general conversation class with cool, fun activities you can do to help students practice speaking with each other). I was also the only one who chose to assign homework. I felt a little sorry for the trainees because I knew the teachers had a lot of other projects/work to complete for their seminar, but I pitched it to them as an opportunity to practice their English writing and I promised that as hard as they worked on any of their writing assignments, I would work just as hard to give them feedback on their work.

I structured the class better than last year, considering what went well and what could be improved; focusing more on practical implementation of teaching writing in the classroom and assessing/commenting on student writing because that's what had been requested the year before. I worked hard, staying up late at night reading essays and commenting. I thought the class was going pretty well, even though the students had been nervous about the workload initially.

However, the outcome of my final assignment (which was the same as last year) shocked me. I gave the student/teachers the last 15 minutes of class to compose a thank you letter to one of their six native teachers. I asked them to choose someone whose class had particularly inspired them or where they felt they learned something useful.

Last year, the students divided it up pretty evenly between the six teachers, so that each of us got a handful of letters. Actually, I think that although William tells me that he and I got the highest ratings last year, I received the fewest letters (mostly because I assigned them to write it, I think). This year, one third of the students chose to write to me. It was overwhelming. And moving. Especially because I felt that the set of native teachers this year was overall much superior to last year's teachers.

I mean, I don't teach to be the most popular and well-liked teacher. In fact, I frequently make pedagogical decisions that I know will be unpopular with my students because I want to challenge them. I'm even ok with being hated, if students find this necessary (because, for example, I make them write essays or do critical thinking). I'm not used to students appreciating my methods in the moment--at best, I usually get the thanks the following year when they come back and tell me how English is "so easy" now because of what they learned in my class.

So as much as teaching the English teachers at my school drained me, this set of eager, inspired teachers has taught me that I can be of some value to other English teachers. I am renewed.

But still, nagging at the back of the mind, is the failure. I've given up--I asked William to change classes with me for next year. I will take the non-English teachers he's been teaching, and he will get the English teachers. In my entire six years in this profession, I have never before given up on students.

I truly hope that William can succeed where I have failed. If he does, maybe I can finally learn what I did wrong. Perhaps I should try to be more likable, as one of my teacher-students suggested (although he appreciated my class, he found me scary at first), or attractive (which is often listed by Koreans as the #1 important quality in a teacher--my eyes always roll when I hear otherwise intelligent people say this). Maybe I just couldn't read through their indirect communication about their expectations for the class.

All I know is that by the end of this whole thing, I feel like the previous native teacher was onto something with showing TV sitcoms and discussing them. It would have been a whole lot easier to do that and the end results would probably have been nearly identical.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Magic Straight.

After months of being sick and feeling like crap, I decided to do something nice for myself, so I went to the salon yesterday and finally decided to do something totally different.



I got the Korean "magic straight" perm--a process that renders curly, unmanageable hair perfectly flat and soft. I love it so far.

Min Gi, on the other hand, is having confusions.

My nickname at swing is 금라면 (Gold Ramyeon) because that is what my hair looks like (or used to look like).

When I told him I was off to the salon, he looked at me really sadly and mumbled, "Goodbye 금라면. Hello, 칼국수 (another kind of noodle dish that is flat and broad)."

Poor thing.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Seoul in the Snow

My family enjoyed their time in Seoul, even with the huge amounts of snow that made the sidewalks a bit treacherous.

Dad and Mom in Insa-dong.


My brother and my husband bought couple rings. No kidding.


First picture after being legally married, across from the U.S. embassy.


My family is a United Colors of Benetton ad. I swear.


Check out the full album, which includes many pictures of my sister being goofy and meeting up with friends:

Seoul in the Snow

Saturday, January 16, 2010

63 Building in the Snow.

In Seoul, my best friend from high school Anne who visited back in March, met us at the train station. 고모 (Gomo) and Cousin's Husband (who had been our guides around Sangju) met us in Seoul with a large passenger van to transport us all around the city. We all stayed in the President Hotel because another of Min Gi's cousin works as a chef at the western restaurant there. It was pretty nice, but overpriced if we hadn't gotten a huge family discount.

Everyone was exhausted from the snow travel, so they all took naps, but Anne and I had energy, so we decided to go find the 63 Building on Yeoido, an island in the middle of the Han River that runs through the middle of Seoul.

The very tall 63 building.


Inside, we got tickets for three exciting exhibits:

The Aquarium (Later I ate him for dinner).

The Wax Museum, featuring Salvador Dali and a scary haunted house where one of the workers followed us around in a Gorilla costume.

And the top deck where we viewed beautiful city snowscapes, such as this one and then night views as the sun set.


To check out the rest of the photos from our wacky adventures, look at the album:

63 Building


After coming back, some family members were getting ill, so Gomo and Cousin's Husband took Anne, Min Gi, Dad, and I out to an octopus restaurant. We watched a live octopus get dropped in a pot of boiling water and then ate it. It was delicious and mildly disturbing, and I really wish I'd taken a video.

Lacking Words.

After the ceremony, the family picture.


When I lack the words in English to adequately express the emotions that surround the events of my wedding and the merging of families, how will I ever hope to thank the people who have moved me with their kindness, their acceptance, their generosity, and their love in their native tongue?

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Family visit to Gyeongju.

For the wedding, my mom, dad, brother Brian, and sister Sarah flew out on January 1 and stayed until January 11. For Mom, it was her first time in Asia. For Dad and Brian, it was their first visit to Korea. Koreans have a hard time believing me when I tell them I'm the shortest person in my family (as I am fairly tall for a female, somewhere between 5'8" and 5'9" depending on how much I'm slouching), but it's true. So the clan of giants descended upon Korea to meet Min Gi's family and generally learn about their new member's culture.

Our first stop, mere days after they landed, was a trip to Gyeongju.

In front of Bulguksa. (Left to Right: Me, Brian, Sarah, Dad, Mom, Min Gi)


Sarah, Min Gi, and Brian rub the golden pig for good luck. Or pick its snout. Whatever suits.


Min Gi and I take advantage of a momentary walking break to practice our choreography for the big day.


After the temple, we meet his oldest aunt and some cousins for yummy soup with tofu and mushrooms.


The only downside to the whole day was that Min Soo, In Shil, and Ohmma were to accompany us, but Ohmma got very, very sick on the ride out to Gyeongju, so Min Soo took her home early. (Don't worry! She got better the next day.) However, this forced Dad and I to have a fun train adventure home since there wasn't enough room in the car for the ride back. Highly entertaining. Check out the rest of the photos:

Bulguksa with the family


More to come about family and friend adventures in Seoul during the biggest snowstorm that city has experienced in more than 30 years!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

I'm married!

Yes, so the last two weeks have been awesome, but hella busy.

I am updating to say that: 1) I have joined the ajumma club! 2) I started teaching at the same time-consuming teachers' workshop I taught at last January, and 3) both Min Gi and are sick.

I will be returning to reflecting on my very nontraditional Korean wedding and the family/friends visiting me in Korea over the next few weeks, but for now it's grading papers and then NyQuil before hitting the hay.