Cambodia smells like a verdant, dense jungle, far off in the distance. Like motorbike exhaust from the tuktuks--passenger carts pulled behind the bikes. It smells of garlic and ginger, fish sauce and green onions. Of dust--all over the marble sandstone temples and roads. It smells like burning trash and dung, like a muddy, dried-up (because of the season) lake once filled with fish, now allowed to become over-fished and polluted by a corrupt and exploitative government. It smells of mosquito spray and sweat, of fresh pineapple and exotic flowers. Of incense at the temples and crap from the poor plumbing.
Cambodia is intense and beautiful, its people friendly and desperate, its history glorious and devastating. I am loving it here.